It’s helpful here to be able to see the frame (live view helps with this, for instance) or have an assistant guide you. (With strobes, you’ll need to trigger them in your preferred method-via cable, wireless or manually fired.) Take a reading in the center of the frame (let’s say it’s ƒ/8) and then move the meter to one of the corners of the frame. Using a handheld incident meter (the kind with the white diffusion dome) position the meter at the background and in the center of the frame, being careful not to block either of the background lights from fully illuminating the meter. ![]() Now I’m ready to use a light meter to check just how even it is. This too will help even out the background. Rather than aiming each source at the center of the background (which would create a hot spot), I aim the light on the right toward the far left edge of the background, and the light on the left should be aimed across to the far right side. With the lights positioned opposite one another, equidistant from the background, the final positioning step is to feather the lights across the background. Two lights help to alleviate this issue, but diffusion helps even more. Parabolic reflectors are more likely to create hot spots on the background and corresponding darker areas as well. When I can, I prefer to use umbrellas or softboxes to make the light as broad as possible. It’s that distance that makes the illumination broader and more even. Flags can help in this situation to block spill from the subject while providing distance from the background. I position the lights in the vertical center of the frame, and I try to keep them as far from the background as is reasonably possible without interfering with the subject. In these cases, rather than a single light centered below the frame, I like to use two lights off to each side. It’s especially useful for spotlights and graduated backgrounds in portraits, but this approach falls a bit short when an even edge-to-edge illumination is desired. Here’s how.įor a typical seamless background, for instance, many studio photographers use a single light source. In these situations, a little planning and testing will make for perfectly even background lighting. It might be when shooting video on a chroma key background or simply because you’re trying to craft a precisely even background for a portrait or product shot. But in some cases, precision really matters. Even the spill from a one-light setup can make the background work. Sure, in most cases it will look fine as long as the background is reasonably lit. ![]() Even better, CodeBox requires no restrictive contracts or minimum purchases.When working in the studio, one particular challenge is making an evenly illuminated background. Plus, our battery-operated design means no pesky charging devices are necessary, either.ĪFFORDABLE. CodeBox is 40-60% less expensive than competing keyboxes. Available in multiple weather-resistant sizes, and in both door-mount and wall-mount versions, CodeBox keyboxes are perfect for a number of industries and uses. Need longer-term access? No worries – CodeBox can do that, too! Access codes expire after their set access window – which means no code sharing, which equals added security for you! Our code generation technology allows for years of unique code generation.ĭEPENDABLE. When you, or the person needing access (it can be configured however you wish), accesses the system to generate a code, it is good for a two-hour window of time. The serial number is entered into your showing, or access, instructions when selecting CodeBox as your keybox of choice through one of our many integration partners. SECURE. Each CodeBox keybox is identified through a unique serial number.
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